Monty Don: Why You Should Plant a Shrub Instead of Seeds in March

Spring is knocking at the door and seed racks are overflowing – but a famous TV gardener advises choosing something quite different now.

While amateur gardeners often enjoy trying new varieties in March and bringing home packet after packet of seeds, Monty Don takes a far more long-term approach. For him, this month is not about instant floral displays but about a woody plant that will shape and support the garden for many years.

Why Monty Don chooses shrubs rather than seeds in March

On British television, Monty Don has long been regarded as a sensible voice for anyone seeking more than colourful beds for a single summer. In March, as the soil gradually thaws and daylight noticeably increases, his strategy is straightforward: plant a shrub that will endure.

“A single well-positioned shrub can provide structure, privacy and flowers for years – without needing to start again every year.”

Where seeds generally fill only one season, Don considers shrubs the “backbone” of a garden. They divide spaces, edge borders, guide the eye and form a lasting backdrop for perennials, bulbs and annuals. For him, March is the point at which soil and weather make establishment easier without placing young plants under pressure.

His key reasons are:

• The ground is no longer deeply frozen while still holding plenty of moisture.
• Light levels and temperatures are rising, but not enough to put plants under immediate stress.
• Fresh roots have time to spread before leaf growth gets properly under way.
• A shrub continues to develop year after year rather than disappearing after one season.

The ideal planting window: what happens in the soil during March

From a botanical perspective, there is plenty of activity below ground in March. Primroses, fruit trees and many perennials are already beginning to grow. Soil temperatures edge upwards, microorganisms become active and roots can access nutrients more easily. It is during this “awakening” that Monty Don plants his shrubs.

The benefit, in his view, is that the plant is not yet directing all its energy into producing leaves, allowing it to focus first on root growth. This creates a strong base that copes better with dry summers and helps reduce frost damage the following winter.

Why he favours bare-root shrubs

Don particularly values bare-root shrubs. Sold without pots or soil, they are lifted directly from the field. In March, the ground is still cool and moist, which is ideal for helping exposed roots quickly establish contact with the surrounding soil.

Bare-root plants offer several benefits:

• They are often cheaper than container-grown plants.
• Their roots can spread through the soil more freely and widely.
• There are no “root spirals”, which can sometimes develop in pots.
• The range of hardy varieties is often broader.

So, if you are already considering new screening, a flowering hedge or a striking focal point, this is an excellent time to plant – before garden centres switch fully into their summer bedding season.

How Monty Don plants shrubs in March, step by step

The TV gardener does not leave the actual planting process to chance. His method may appear simple, but every step has a clear purpose. Preparing the soil is especially important to him.

Preparing the soil: think wide, not deep

First, he carefully removes all perennial root weeds. Thistles, couch grass, ground elder and similar plants should not be given the opportunity to regrow directly around the new shrub’s roots.

He then uses a spade to create a planting hole that is wide but comparatively shallow – around 20 to 25 centimetres deep. The soil beneath is loosened slightly, but without making a narrow, deep pit.

“The aim is for roots to venture sideways into the existing soil rather than ‘sit’ in a comfortable but restricted pocket of compost.”

He deliberately avoids adding extra compost or soil improver to the planting hole. The shrub should learn to grow in the real garden soil, rather than relying on an artificially enriched island.

Mycorrhizal fungi, planting height and watering

As an optional step, Don dusts the exposed roots with mycorrhizal fungi. These form a type of symbiotic relationship with the plant and increase its effective root surface area. This enables the shrub to reach water and nutrients more quickly.

He considers the planting level crucial: the shrub should sit slightly above the surrounding soil level, rather than being planted too deeply. As he firms the soil, he creates a gentle cone shape so that water can gradually seep towards the centre.

Once the shrub is in place, it should be watered thoroughly to remove air pockets and ensure good soil contact. Only after this does he add good compost – as mulch on the surface, not at the bottom of the hole.

Shrubs worth planting for years to come

Monty Don repeatedly stresses that planting a shrub is a decision for years, not weeks. Choosing the right one therefore matters all the more. Several classics appear in British gardens almost everywhere because they are hardy and adaptable.

Shrub	Benefits	Suitable position
Hydrangeas	Large flower heads, impressive autumn colour, well suited to partially shaded positions	Partial shade, humus-rich soil, even moisture
Shrub roses	Long flowering season, fragrance, wide choice of varieties	Sun, free-draining soil, not overly nutrient-poor
Viburnum	Early or late flowers depending on species, often fragrant, winter structure	Sun to partial shade, ordinary garden soil
Mock orange (Philadelphus)	Intensely scented white flowers in early summer, easy to maintain	Sun to partial shade, also tolerates some dryness

Many of these species stay compact, respond well to pruning and can even suit smaller terraced-house gardens. One well-placed shrub can alter the character of an entire plot – as a flowering feature by the entrance, for example, or a calm backdrop to a perennial border.

How one shrub can transform the whole garden

Anyone short of time or money does not need to plant an entire hedge at once. Don encourages gardeners to choose and plant at least one shrub thoughtfully in March. The long-term effect is often greater than beginners expect.

Possible effects include:

• New screening from neighbours or the road gives greater privacy.
• Fragrant shrubs near a seating area make the garden more enjoyable in summer.
• Flowering shrubs provide food for bees, bumblebees and butterflies.
• Birds use dense branches for nesting and shelter.

Over the years, such a woody plant becomes an “anchor point” around which further planting can develop naturally. Perennials can be arranged against it, paths can lead towards it and seating areas can be positioned in relation to it – creating an organic layout rather than a piecemeal one.

Common mistakes when planting shrubs in spring

Many shrub problems are caused not by the variety itself, but by small errors at planting time. Following Monty Don’s advice helps avoid several of the most frequent pitfalls:

• Planting too deeply: Shrubs that are “buried” are more likely to rot around the base.
• Putting compost in the planting hole: Roots remain in the luxury zone and barely extend into the surrounding soil.
• Ignoring root weeds: Ground elder or couch grass can quickly overwhelm young shrubs.
• Watering irregularly in the first year: Newly planted shrubs dry out faster than many people realise.

Instead, a shallow, wide planting hole, firm soil contact and a protective layer of mulch provide the basis for decades with the same shrub.

What amateur gardeners can take from this for their own borders

Although Monty Don is primarily discussing British gardens, his recommendation also transfers easily to gardens elsewhere in Europe. Many regions experience similar conditions in March: changeable weather, but soil that is gradually thawing and still retains enough moisture.

Anyone already planning their planting can consciously redirect part of their seed budget towards a long-lasting woody plant. This is particularly useful for new gardeners, as not everything has to begin from scratch each year when some permanent structure remains in place.

Shrubs are also ideal for experimenting with shape. Over time, they can be gently guided in a particular direction, kept more compact through pruning or allowed to grow more loosely. Gradually, this creates a personal garden character rather than a random mix of pots and seasonal plants.

In the long run, this approach pays off in several ways: less work replanting every year, more stable habitats for wildlife, a garden that still has presence in winter and, ultimately, a noticeably more substantial impression across the whole plot. So, when reaching the till at the garden centre in March, it is worth asking: could one shrub that stays perhaps be enough this year, instead of five packets that disappear again after one summer?